Part 1 – By Mere Nailatikau
We arrived at the picturesque village of Naga on a Friday afternoon and were greeted at the village hall by our lead guide, Sairusi. It was a beautiful time of day to arrive, as our vehicle navigated the road into the small community nestled in the mountains of Fiji’s Nadrau district. After unpacking, we had a chat with Sairusi while waiting for our fellow hikers to arrive.
When the waiting got longer, Sai offered us a short walk to a neighbouring house, built in the traditional style of the province, thatched with reeds and built with bamboo and natural materials from the surrounding hills. Using age-old building techniques, the villagers were happy to explain the various features of the home, and how not a single nail was used in its construction. It was a privilege to see such rare and invaluable traditional practices still being kept alive in such beautiful surroundings. After having a long and endless talk with the village elders we noticed the Talanoa Treks Truck come our way from afar.
Once all the hikers were in the hall, we greeted each other and took in the scenic view of the highland sunset. The changing light as the sun set over the mountain ranges took our breath away. Every moment revealed something new, and the view from the community hall was the perfect preview for the breathtaking adventure that was in store for us.
Our warm, hospitable hosts treated us to beautiful spreads of local, in-season, vegetarian fare for afternoon tea and dinner. Fijian staples such as babakau (fried bread) and pancakes were accompanied by fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared in a range of stir-fries, salads, and curries – a vibrant demonstration of the recent food safety training that the women of Naga had recently completed.
After a hearty breakfast and a briefing, Sairusi introduced us to three other guides who would be accompanying us – Elesi, Mere, and Waicevata (“Ice”) – and we were off on our 11-kilometer trek to Nubutautau village in the neighbouring district of Navatusila. It was a hike to remember, as we ascended and descended mountain trails, wove our way through forests, crossed streams and balanced on river rocks. We were accompanied for most of the journey by Sairusi’s trusty horse, Kaji. At our first rest stop, we cooled our feet in the river, hydrated and snacked on fruit while Ice gave us a preview of the history of Nabutautau and the story of Reverend Baker, who famously lost his life there in the leadup to the Colo War of 1876.
This part of Fiji is steeped in a rich and complex history, much of which is overshadowed by the stories and accounts of coastal, more heavily touristed areas of the country. Nevertheless, the interior parts of the provinces of Nadroga-Navosa (where Naga and Nabutautau are located), Ra, and Ba, played pivotal roles in Fiji’s early resistance to colonization – echoes of which continue into the present day. Ice’s account, full of humour and a healthy dose of intrigue, was also respectfully told, as he acknowledged that the full retelling would happen in Nabutautau, where we would have the opportunity to ask questions and speak with Mr Roko, a respected elder of the village and a leader in the surrounding district of Navatusila.
The guides capably and patiently steered us along the way, answering our questions about the flora and fauna, as well as life in the village, pointing out paths to farms of friends and relatives from neighbouring villages. It was a special experience to have Elesi and Mere, two female guides, with us. The female trekkers amongst us deeply appreciated the chance to spend time with them and were comfortable approaching them with questions about what life is like for women in such a beautiful part of the country, with its own unique set of challenges.